Often my clients with skin concerns such as acne, just ask for full coverage, even tho they don’t like wearing allot of makeup. Concealing blemishes is a given but don’t feel trapped in the all or nothing cycle.
So how do you have the best of both worlds?
The idea is to do your foundation in three layers. The first is a light layer all over the whole face, second is applying a medium coverage layer on the areas that have the blemishes, third is to go in with a small details brush and conceal each spot individually.
I will use my lovely client Gabi’s before and after photos as reference (attached above) and the products I used for her makeup are discussed below.
Step 1. (see diagram 1 &2)
I used one pump of Armani Luminous silk foundation colour 4.5 and buffed it in all over the face and neck, don’t forget your ears. Use a kabuki brush Or a sponge or even your fingers if you have neither. This is a medium coverage foundation that is buildable to medium/full coverage.
To practice the technique just use your regular foundation. If you only have a full coverage product cut it (mix with) a little moisturiser to sheer it down. It should tell you on the bottle if you are not sure of the type of coverage your foundation gives you.
Step 2. (see diagram 3)
Add a second layer in the same way as you did in the first step (Kabuki, sponge or fingers) with another pump of foundation, you want this layer to be medium coverage, so use the full pump. If bending with fingers you will only need half a pump. Sheer it down a little if needed.
Just apply it in areas that you need a little more coverage, so where you still see any redness, pigmentation, or blemishes through the first layer of foundation.
Make sure this layer is well blended ,you don't want any stop lines between layers.
Eg; nose, chin or cheeks (Not all over the face this time)
Step 3. (see diagram 4)
It's time to conceal. I used RCMA foundation as concealer on a small pointed liner brush. Use any concealer you have that best matches your foundation /skin colour. You apply dots of concealer on any spots you can still see as after the first two layers.
Use a dampened beauty blender with fixing spray to press the product into the skin. It will help hold the concealer in place for longer and blend it into the skin.
Add blusher and contour blending lightly if you have concealer in these areas. So you don’t lift all your hard work you have just done and expose the blemishes again.
Set with powder and a layer of fishing spray and you're all set.
We applied three different kinds of foundation in one. We did a sheer natural layer in our first step. In our second step we did a medium coverage and in our final step was full coverage over the spots.
When you apply the required amounts of coverage exactly where its needed you will find overall that your skin looks much more natural flawless and not caked in makeup.
I offer one-on-one Makeup lessons where I can show you exactly how to achieve the perfect natural foundation for any skin type. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to get in touch.
With love, from the Dyslexic Makeup artist xo
Author Kate Murphy
Makeup Artist & Hair stylist